The historical route from Victoria’s Gippsland Lakes to the rural city of Wangaratta is a rolling tapestry of colourful stories and characters.
Wasn’t it the overambitious young lad Icarus from Greek mythology who flew too close to the sun and melted his waxen wings? But do not fear, your ascent to the clouds is more likely to yield success and fulfilment than our hapless youngster of legend.
Victoria’s iconic Great Alpine Road extends a little more than 300 kilometres from coastal Bairnsdale on the scenic Gippsland Lakes to rural Wangaratta on the northwestern slopes of the Victorian Alps, at the junction of the Ovens and King rivers.
The famous historical route existed long before it bore the title, as it comprised a series of dirt and gravel switchbacks gradually rising to 1800 metres above sea level near the ski fields of Mount Hotham. It was first gazetted as a highway in 1914, but it wasn’t until 1996 that the title Great Alpine Road was finally bestowed, after incorporating the existing Ovens and Omeo Highways. Its total length is 303.7km and it rises to an altitude of 1,840m at Mount Hotham. The final sections at Dinner Plain were sealed towards the end of 1998.
The road, now in its best-ever condition, can be tackled in either direction and, for Melbourne residents, makes an ideal circular road trip over several days, or longer, if you would prefer to take your time. If you start your travels from the ocean, you can break with tradition and set off from Lakes Entrance, one of Australia’s largest fishing ports and a regional tourism hub. Of course, it’s as busy as anything during holiday periods, so choose your time carefully.
That said, some of the best accommodation options can be found along the waterfront boulevard, ranging from plush suites such as those at Bellevue on the Lakes or quality motel rooms at the Central Hotel, which, by the way, has some of the best pub meals anywhere in Gippsland or beyond.
Whether you’re starting from either Bairnsdale or Lakes Entrance, you’ll converge on the B500 at Bruthen to begin your upward journey on this historical route. But don’t rush off — little Bruthen is worth a linger, even if it’s just for a coffee at the Blue Bee Cafe. Besides the heritage stores and lush scenery, there’s a vibrant art community as well as the famous Tambo Valley Honey to sample and Bullant Brewery or Heritage Tea Rooms to visit. If you’re staying over, consider the Bruthen Inn Hotel, which is within easy walking distance.
The road starts to show you its adventurous side through Tambo Crossing and the Ash Ranges with gentle sweeping curves as it follows the adjacent, tree-lined river through green pastures and farmland. Cross the Tambo River and slow down for Ensay because you don’t want to miss the Ensay Winery. Say g’day to owners David and Jenny Coy who grow and produce every drop of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir right on the property.
Continue on through Swifts Creek and you’ll soon be at the key waypoint of Omeo, a historic cattle and gold town first visited by stockmen in the 1830s. The town grew quickly thanks to the bounty of land, with banks, hotels and emporiums springing up along the main street. By the beginning of the 20th century, the town and the surrounding district could boast more than 10,000 prosperous citizens. As a nod to Omeo’s illustrious past, the aptly named Golden Age Hotel stands proud in the main street. Built in a late Art Deco style in 1940, the current hotel is actually the fifth to stand on the site, all previous structures having been destroyed by fire.
There’s ample fuel and food in Omeo and you might be surprised by the yummy house-made pies and pastries at the High Country Cafe & Takeaway or next door at Pippa’s Bakery. The Crazy Cow tends to be the preferred venue but be assured there is no bad choice here. Omeo really is the perfect point to base yourself for a wider exploration of the district. While the official and historical route, the B500, heads southwest out of town to Bright via Mount Hotham and Harrietville, there is an equally satisfying detour, the C531, via Falls Creek and Mount Beauty. The Snowline Hotel at Harrietville, by the way, is closed for renovations until mid-2025, but the motel continues to trade as normal.
As a further option, the C543 takes you north towards the NSW border through the sleepy hamlet of Benambra, home to the hotel of the same name and run by returning local Erin Tomkins. And the century-old walls can tell some tall tales. “It started as a sly grog shop and boarding house of sorts, later run by a wily old Irishwoman, Mary ‘Ma’ Murphy catering to the miners and squatters who turned up in the district from the 1830s,” Erin says. “It’s had quite a history since.” Renowned photographer Ken Duncan once passed through, shooting a famous scene with local celebrity Ken Connley and his horse at the bar. And regulars still talk about the night Steve Irwin shouted the house. The accommodation is delightfully rustic and the food is definitely worth a stop.
If you’ve decided to continue on the C543, take it easy through the many winding passages. The road is in excellent condition, but don’t let that lead you into complacency — there could be any manner of surprises around the next blind corner. As you arrive on the little bridge across the Cobungra River, you’ll happen upon the delightful Blue Duck Inn. At the time of writing, new owners were moving in, so be sure to check ahead for food and accommodation availability. That aside, a beautifully situated campground is an easy underarm throw away across the river.
Just past Glen Valley at Middle Creek, the Falls Creek turn is onto the Bogong High Plains Road (C531), which will take you via another network of switchbacks to the famous ski fields. Many of the lodges, cafes and hotels will welcome summer visitors, but check for any changes in seasonal opening hours.
Continue through Bogong into the picturesque hamlet of Mount Beauty, a location perfect for a quick — or leisurely — stretch of the legs. The C531 continues to Albury, while you can get to Bright via the Tawonga Gap Road (C536). Stopping at Sullivan’s Lookout for a view of the gorgeous valley is mandatory. At Bright, there is an abundance of quality lodgings and eateries, so it makes sense to set up a base here. Long-time Bright resident and business owner Martyn Paterson was happy to share his tips. “The widely held opinion is that Tigre Vita upstairs in the Alpine Hotel is the current title holder for best restaurant,” he says. “A new restaurant called Basils is another contender. Other good restaurants are Hara House, Elm and Sagunya Thai.”
Quality pub-style meals can be had at the Bright Brewery along with any of their alpine ales or lagers. Friday sunset sessions are a feature of the brewery’s live music program. Blues and beer? Sounds like a great combo. In a nod to cyclists’ penchant for the region’s challenging roads, the Bright Velo Hotel caters exclusively for two-wheeled, pedal-powered guests with a custom-designed bike storage room with space for 26 bikes. This historical route even has a maintenance station for emergency repairs.
Obviously, road conditions are entirely different mid-year, evidenced by the bright yellow road markings and vivid orange snow poles. Unless you’re toting skis and snowboards with chains at the ready, you’ll likely find summer a more pleasant tarmac experience. Swap ski poles for hiking poles and enjoy any of the challenging trails that form a web out of Hotham Heights.
Myrtleford, known for its rich agricultural produce, is another classic High Country town where you can take a break and pay your respects to Sargeant Albert Lowerson VC, whose statue dominates the town square. Numerous eateries line the main street and browsers will love the Red Ramia Trading Store or the Vintage and Salvage Co. The final leg into the major rural centre of Wangaratta is fairly straightforward, although a minor detour onto Snow Road (C522) will take you past the renowned Brown Brothers Winery, where daily tastings and tours take place at 10:30am.
Wang, famous for its annual Jazz & Blues Festival in November and numerous historic homes and buildings, is where your upward journey ends on this historical route at the junction with the Hume Hwy (M31). And now you can rightfully claim your own small part in this historic Australian storyboard. For more information, go to visiteastgippsland.com.au.
Photography: Visit Victoria
