When it comes to the luminaries of the hospitality industry in regional NSW, the names Michael Manners and Josephine Jagger-Manners stand head and shoulders above the rest. They’ve been a life-and-work team since the late 1980s when they started Michael’s eponymous cooking school in Wentworth Falls and their collective CV — teaching at the Blue Mountains International Hotel Management School, then founding Table Manners in Katoomba, before moving on to Orange in the NSW Central West where they ran Selkirks for a decade until 2007 — has kept them at the forefront of regional dining for almost four decades.
While you might think they’ve earnt a bit of a rest, these days Michael and Josephine are as busy as ever. When Australian Country arrives at their home in downtown Orange, Michael has been busy prepping his signature rillettes for an upcoming Barrel & Larder cooking school at Ross Hill Wines and he’s in the middle of planning for two functions he’s catering on the weekend. He’s also heading to France in the northern-hemisphere summer to host cooking classes in a late-19th-century villa in the Armagnac region. Josephine, meanwhile, is busy in her studio, painting new works for her perpetual exhibition on the walls of the Peacock Room at The Oriana Orange boutique hotel. In her “spare” time, she’s planning the upcoming classes in fabric montage that she teaches from home, as well as works for the regular studio openings she holds as part of the Orange Art Trail.
“When people ask us how retirement is going, I always say, ‘Great, instead of working seven days a week, now I only do six and a half’,” Michael says. “Oh, come on, darling,” Josephine interjects. “You’re only 82, you’ve got to keep the grey matter working.”
Michael was born in England, but came to Australia with his mother as an infant after his father was killed at the age of 28 in battle in June 1944. He was drawn to hospitality and considers himself fortunate that he grew up at a time when he could afford to attend the renowned International Hotel Management School in Lausanne, Switzerland. “We studied for 20 weeks of the year, then spent the rest of the time doing work experience,” Michael says. “I did stints waiting tables and wine service, as well as working as an auditor. Fine dining was incredibly labour intensive in those days, as you carved at the table and served desserts like crêpes Suzette from trolleys. And constantly changed ashtrays. Everyone smoked at the table back then.”
Always more attracted to the kitchen than the managerial desk, Michael leapt at the opportunity to work in the UK at the Michelin-starred Hole in the Wall restaurant in Bath under the luminary George Perry-Smith. “It changed my life,” he says of the experience. “I learnt the difference between running a restaurant purely as a business and for people who genuinely love the pleasure of good food.”
Michael returned to Australia where, in 1970, he opened the legendary Upstairs restaurant with his then wife, Monique, and her sister, Dany Chouet. Michael and Monique subsequently established the landmark Glenella guesthouse and restaurant in Blackheath, while Dany and her partner, Trish Hobbs, made their culinary mark on the Mountains with the celebrated Cleopatra guesthouse and dining room.
Josephine, meanwhile, was also encouraged to move to Australia from her home country of the UK, when she brought her father out to live with her sister in Wollongong. As a 25-year-old with experience working in Marks & Spencer head office, she had no trouble finding work front of house at Sydney’s Wentworth Hotel, then in public and guest relations for The Rocks Visitor Centre. After moving to Katoomba’s Fairmont Resort as a guest relations officer, she met Michael in the late ’80s and they’ve been a formidable team ever since.
“Even in the most hectic days front-of-house in restaurants, I always crafted, making rugs and dabbling in painting for relaxation,” Josephine says. “It was only when we left Selkirks in 2007 that I was able to focus on my art and my work has been mainly in acrylics ever since. I like that it’s such an accommodating medium. It’s almost like an oil from the tube, then you can water them down to get an effect that’s like a watercolour or wash.”
Rather than restrict herself to any one subject matter, Josephine’s oeuvre is broad, ranging from abstract to landscape, still lifes and interiors. “I’ve always been inspired by interiors,” she says. “So I like doing lamps, wallpaper and cushions.” One constant theme is paintings featuring the Oriana Peacock, which sell pretty much as soon as they are hung. “I did a librarian version surrounded by books and Mr Martini with gin and vermouth and all the makings. I think the next one will be a maestro playing a violin.”
Josephine adds that as well as keeping her busy, the Oriana paintings allow her to make regular trips back to the UK to see her daughter, who works as a make-up artist and fashion ambassador for Laura Geller, and grandson, who is now 15.
While life is full, there is the odd moment to smell the roses, or at least the prolific herb garden at the back of the house. There’s a paved sitting area that’s perfect for savouring a coffee and feeding Magnus the magpie, Spot the cheeky peewee and a baby currawong. Michael and Josephine have nicknamed the space Trafalgar Square for the pigeons that also visit. “Michael keeps threatening that they’ll end up in the pot,” Josephine says. “While he would doubtless turn them into something delicious, that’s not going to happen on my watch.” AC
