Chongqing hot glass noodle broth
Serves 2
One can’t consider chillies without visiting Sichuan, China’s spiciest region. It was here that the fruits first blazed into the country having crossed over the Himalayas, and here where they are used most keenly, combined with the piquancy of native Sichuan peppercorns.
This lip-puckering hot-and-sour broth comes from the city of Chongqing, also famous for eye-wateringly fiery hotpots. Sweet potato noodles are made fresh by Sichuanese vendors, who pass batter through sieve-like holes directly into boiling water, but can be bought dried in Chinese supermarkets. Seek them out for their glorious, slippery transparency, which makes an agreeable contrast to the riot of crunchy toppings.
This is good made with Sichuan spiced chilli oil, in which case you can omit the sesame seeds but keep in the garlic, even if you’ve added it to the oil.
250g sweet potato noodles
350ml (scant 1½ cups) unsalted vegetable or
chicken stock
For the seasonings
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons Chinese
chilli oil, plus
1 tablespoon sediment
2 tablespoons chinkiang
black vinegar
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted
sesame seeds
½ teaspoon roasted, ground Sichuan pepper
For the toppings
1 tablespoon neutral oil
2 tablespoons raw red-skinned peanuts
1 green onion, sliced
⅓ celery stalk,
finely chopped
2 teaspoons zhaicai (pickled mustard stems), chopped
Small handful
coriander leaves
Cook the sweet potato noodles following packet instructions. It may suggest pre-soaking overnight but
this can be fast-tracked to a few minutes using warm water, if needed. When tender and slippery, drain and rinse. Set aside.
Prepare your toppings. Heat a wok over medium–high heat, add a slug of oil and when shimmering, add the peanuts. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, then reduce the heat to low and continue to fry, stirring often, until the nuts are a deep golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
Divide the seasonings between two serving bowls. Heat up the stock and pour half in each, stirring to mix.
Add the noodles. Sprinkle the toppings over and eat at once.
Images and text from The Nutmeg Trail by Eleanor Ford, photography by Ola O. Smit.
Murdoch Books, $49.99. Cover illustrations: nutmeg and chilli from rawpixel; cinnamon and star anise from Shutterstock; peppercorns from Creative Market.
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